Pruning Resources

Video Library

Terms and Tips

Apical Dominance Tendency of the apical bud to inhibit lateral bud growth. Pruning the apical bud can encourage lateral growth.
Bark Inclusion Condition where bark grows between two branches, weakening their connection. Remove one of the branches to prevent breakage.
Bleeding Flow of sap from a cut, especially in spring. Generally, bleeding does not harm most trees and most shrubs won't have much bleeding. For plants that do bleed badly prune when the plant is less likely to bleed.
Branch Collar Swollen area at the base of a branch joining the trunk. Usually only a concern with trees. Cut outside the branch collar.
Bud Pruning Removing or reducing buds to direct growth. Pinch or cut off unwanted buds.
Canopy Lifting Removing lower branches to raise canopy height. Gradually remove lower branches.
Coppicing Cutting a tree/shrub to ground level for new growth. Best done in late winter. Most broadleaf evergreens can take coppicing in late winter to early spring. Almost all confifers cannot.
Cross-Pollard Pruning Variant of pollarding used on multiple branches. Prune several main branches back to pollards for regrowth.
Crown Cleaning Removing dead, diseased, or weak limbs from a tree or shrub canopy. Identify and remove problematic branches.
Crown Raising Removing lower branches of a tree or shrub. Don’t remove more than one-third of the total crown unless plant can take it (e.g., most established broadleaf evergreens in the late winter to early spring).
Crown Reduction Decreasing tree height/spread. Remove outer branch portions; avoid topping.
Crown Restoration Pruning to restore a tree’s shape. Usually requires multiple prunings over years.
Crown Thinning Selective branch removal for light and air. Remove branches evenly throughout the crown.
Deadheading Removing spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Snip off faded blooms at their base.
Disbudding Removing buds for shape control or bloom size. Common in roses or peonies.
Dormant Bud Pruning Removing growth to encourage dormant bud activation. Stimulates growth in specific directions.
Drop Crotch Pruning Reducing tree size by pruning back leaders to lateral branches. Often used as a better alternative to tree topping.
Espalier Training a tree or shrub to grow flat against a support, such as a wall with trellis. Prune and tie branches to a frame for desired shape.
Flush Cut A pruning cut made close to the trunk or main limb. Avoid flush cuts; leave the branch collar intact.
Formative Pruning Early pruning to shape young trees or shrubs. Focus on developing a strong structure.
Frill Pruning Removing a ring of bark from around a tree to kill it. Not recommended; harmful to the tree.
Frost Pruning Pruning due to frost damage. Wait until after the last frost to prune.
Girdling Accidental removal of a ring of bark. Avoid making cuts that encircle a branch or trunk.
Green Pruning Removing young, non-woody growth. Shapes plants and controls size during the growing season.
Hard Pruning Aggressive cutting back to control size and stimulate new growth. Best done in late winter; not all plants respond well (e.g., about all conifers do not respond well).
Heading Back Shortening a branch back to a bud or smaller branch. Cut above a healthy bud or lateral branch.
Heading Cut Removing the terminal portion of a branch. Make the cut above a bud facing the growth direction.
Hedge Pruning Maintaining or creating a formal hedge shape. Trim regularly and if shearing make sure to occasionally use bypass to cut deep into hedge to provide light and air inside.
Lateral Pruning Cutting back to a lateral branch of at least one-third the diameter of the branch being removed. Maintains structure and balance.
Limb Lopping Removing large branches. Use proper tools to avoid tearing or damage.
Lion’s Tail Pruning Removing side branches from a main branch, leaving foliage at the end. Avoid; leads to weak branch structure.
Maintenance Pruning Regular pruning for plant health and appearance. Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches annually.
Mist Pruning Light, frequent pruning of soft, herbaceous plants. Encourages denser, controlled growth.
Natural Pruning Minimal intervention growth. Minimal pruning, just problematic branches removal.
Nibbling Pruning Making small cuts for gradual shaping. Useful for detailed shaping without stressing the plant.
Notching A small cut above a bud to stimulate growth. Make a shallow cut above a dormant bud.
Palm Pruning Removing old fronds from palms. Only remove completely brown fronds.
Pinching Removing growing tips of young plants with fingers. Encourages bushier growth; common in herbaceous plants.
Pole Pruner Tool for cutting higher branches. Use with care, ideally with training or experience.
Pollarding Removing upper branches for dense foliage, often done on Crape Myrtles and sometimes called "Crape murder". Done annually on the same stumps or 'pollards'.
Pruning Selective removal of plant parts for growth control, health, and appearance. Use clean, sharp tools, and make angled cuts above buds or branches.
Reduction Cut Pruning cut reducing branch length to a smaller lateral branch. Ensure lateral branch is at least one-third the diameter of the branch being removed.
Regenerative Pruning Pruning to rejuvenate old or overgrown trees. Gradual renewal pruning is best.
Rejuvenation Pruning Cutting plants almost to ground level. Suitable for shrubs that handle severe, including many broadleaf evergreens such as hollies and ligustrum.
Renewal Pruning Gradual removal of old wood over years. Each year, remove up to a third of the oldest stems or branches.
Retrenchment Pruning Gradual size reduction in older trees. Mimics the natural aging process of trees.
Root Pruning Cutting roots for growth control or transplanting. Cut larger roots cleanly.
Scaffold Pruning Developing primary branches around a central leader. Essential for strong structure in young trees.
Selective Pruning Choosing specific branches for a desired effect. Assess structure and prune to enhance natural shape.
Selective Removal Pruning specific branches for shaping and structure. Choose branches impacting shape or health.
Shaping Pruning for a particular shape or design. Regular shaping needed for formal designs.
Shearing Trimming plants into shapes using hedge trimmers. Allow for wider growth at the base for formal hedges and occasionally use bypass to cut deep into hedge to provide light and air inside.
Skeletonizing Removing large sections of bark and cambium. Avoid skeletonizing; use proper pruning cuts.
Skirt Pruning Removing lower branches to prevent ground contact. Ideal for fruit trees for better air circulation.
Snagging Removing dangerous, dead, or broken branches. Often done for safety; requires prompt attention.
Standard Pruning Creating a tree-like shape in a shrub or vine. Involves selecting a single stem and removing lower growth.
Structural Pruning Enhancing long-term tree structure and health. Identify and correct structural issues early.
Stump Pruning Cutting a tree down to a stump. (also see coppicing) Some trees can regrow from stumps.
Subordination Cut Reducing a competing leader or branch. Maintains a single, dominant trunk in young trees.
Suckering Removing shoots from roots or lower trunk. Remove suckers as close to their base as possible.
Surgical Pruning Precise pruning for health or aesthetics. Requires expertise.
Thermal Pruning Using heat to control plant growth. Not common in residential settings; specialized equipment needed.
Thinning Removing entire branches to improve light and air circulation. Remove older, less productive branches at their origin.
Tip Bearing Pruning Pruning fruit trees that bear fruit at tips. Avoid cutting back the tips of last year's growth.
Tip Pruning Trimming branch tips for bushier growth. Common in hedge maintenance.
Topiary Shaping plants into decorative forms. Regular pruning and detailed shaping required.
Topiary Pruning Creating and maintaining artistic shapes. Requires regular pruning and vision. If using shears occasionally use bypass to cut deep into hedge to provide light and air inside.
Topping Cutting off the top of a tree. Avoid topping; leads to weak growth and stress.
Training Pruning Directing growth through pruning. Start when the plant is young.
Transitional Pruning Adjusting pruning method as a plant matures. Shift from formative to maintenance pruning.
Undercutting Initial cut on the underside of a branch. Prevents bark tearing down the trunk.
Utility Pruning Pruning to prevent interference with utility lines. Professional execution required due to power line proximity.
Vase Pruning Creating a vase-like shape in fruit trees. Remove central branches for light.
Vista Pruning Pruning to enhance a view from a point. Remove branches to clear sightlines while maintaining tree health.
Water Sprouts Removing weak, fast-growing shoots on branches. Remove most water sprouts unless needed for branch replacement.
Whorl Pruning Removing growth at nodes where several branches originate. Useful in pines and conifers for shaping and density control.
Winter Pruning Pruning during the dormant season, typically late winter. Promotes vigorous spring growth in many trees and shrubs.
Wound Dressing Covering cuts with a substance to protect them. Often avoided in modern practice as most trees and shurbs can seal their own wounds.
Young Tree Pruning Structural pruning in the early years of a tree. Establishes a strong framework for future growth.
Zone Pruning Pruning according to different plant zones. Each zone (top, middle, lower) may need a different approach.